Nikon FE SLR

Posted by: Tim Lewis aka Paps August 18, 2025

Nikon FE SLR

The Nikon FE

There is a lot to unpack in this camera, and a great deal is happening within its compact design. I'll begin by explaining why I chose to purchase it and my motivations behind owning one.

For me, owning the Nikon FE came about with a lens. Yep, you know you might have a problem when you begin buying camera bodies to fit a lens, instead of the other way around. On this site, I reviewed the Kiev 19 SLR, which (in my case) came with a Helios 81N lens. I explained that I discovered the camera and lens in 'new' condition, and it was factory sealed in a box from 1992. I believe the seller was in Ukraine, and that it was found in a warehouse there.

To be honest, I was more excited about the new Helios lens than the Kiev camera, and it just so happened that this Helios 81N is a Nikon F-mount. Kind of a rarity, but not a total surprise when considering the old Soviet Union was not shy about stealing patents from the rest of the world. It left me in an odd position, though. While the Kiev is a more than capable camera body, it is limited by the 1/500th shutter speed. This requires the use of ND filters to do what the Helios is known for doing. Creating unique and unpredictable bokeh when wide open.

What this meant to me, not that I spend a huge amount of time chasing bokeh, was that I need a Nikon camera body to use the lens on anything other than the Kiev. After carefully researching Nikon SLRs (I used their DSLRs exclusively in my digital days), I settled on the FE. Not being a wealthy man, I wanted a decent SLR but one that would not break the bank, like the current 'vogue' models that seem to be increasing every day on eBay.

Once I began reading about it, though, I knew it was the perfect camera for my Helios, and I was able to buy an unused one for about $200.00, without a lens. I'll begin by rattling through the specs and then continue with the user-experience side of it all. The specs themselves will take some time since, as stated, there is a lot to unpack.

The Nikon FE was introduced in 1978, and it was in production until 1983. There is an aperture priority mode, a manual mode, and a Bulb mode, as well as a 'battery-failure' setting that is labeled "M90" on the shutter dial. This, of course, is 1/90th second shutter speed and can be used should the electronics fail for some reason. I appreciate this marking on the dial since I don't have to remember which shutter speed will work, should things go sideways. The fastest shutter speed on the dial is 1/1000th, and the slowest is 8 seconds.

At first, I was unimpressed by the slight increase in shutter speed that I would gain over the Kiev by buying this camera. I nearly dismissed it as an option and sank under the realization that I would have to spend much more money for an even later model. Then I stumbled across Ken Rockwell's review of the camera and hit pay dirt. You can read it here...

https://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/fe.htm

While 1/1000th of a second is as fast as YOU can set the shutter speed, the camera can actually set its own speed (in aperture priority) much faster if it needs to. In fact, according to Ken, the camera can access 1/4000th of a second to make certain that your image comes out properly exposed. How he figured this out is beyond me, but I was willing to assume he was correct and ordered the camera. I realized many years ago that Ken is usually right about most photographic topics.

The FE is fully compatible with Nikon F-mount lenses, including my Helios, provided that they are AI or AF lenses. G lenses, the digital lenses for later Nikons, will not work. The camera runs on two LR44 batteries that reportedly last for years, and it uses a needle-matching meter so you can see all of your adjustments in real time. I've spoken many times of my love for that meter, on my Minolta SRTs, and that finally convinced me that I wanted the FE.

The camera will X-sync to 1/125th for flash, and this is marked in red on the shutter dial as a reminder. It is very compatible with the SB-10 Speedlight, which is about the cost of a cup of coffee, online. The metering is Through-the-Lens (TTL) and is center weighted. There is also a 'flash ready' light that is visible in the viewfinder when the flash is fully charged. If you want, the FE can also use the MD-11 and MD-12 motor drives.

There are a few small tricks on the camera that I will try to include without getting too long-winded about them. In order to pull up the film winder and open the back cover, there is a small plastic lever next to it that must be pushed at the same time. Not a big deal, but something to look for. The shutter dial also locks in place when it is placed on the green "AUTO" mode, and a small button must be pressed to take it out again. And finally, there is a small button next to the film wind lever that must be pressed to change the iso setting for your film.

The camera is very compact, solid, and feels extremely well-built. The film advance lever is smooth and has a very short throw. It also doubles as an on and off switch for the battery and meter. By pushing it all the way forward, it will 'snap' in place, and the battery power will be cut to the camera. By leaving it slightly out, after winding the frame, the camera is ready to take the next shot.

At first, I thought this might be an annoyance, but it is really a well-thought-out design. Not only does shoving it forward save your battery, but it also locks the shutter button and prevents you from accidentally pressing it. Great when packing it in a suitcase or having it dangle from a strap at your side.

The 'Locking' Film Advance Lever

The self-timer doubles as an exposure lock, though in the manual, they call it a 'Memory Lock'. It's a nice thought, and it's better than not having one at all, but in order to use it, you have to keep the small lever pressed toward the lens the entire time, until the shutter is pressed. At that point, I'm thinking just putting it in manual mode might be easier. Their recommended use is to take a reading close to your subject, press the self timer toward the lens, then hold it there while you back up, re-focus, and re-compose the image.

Also, next to the lens is a Depth-of-Field Preview lever. This allows you to see what your depth of field will look like if you are shooting in Aperture Priority. Of course, in Manual, you're already seeing it in real time through the lens.

If you are shooting with a non-AI lens or one that does not have an automatic diaphragm or a meter coupler, you can lock up the meter coupling lever on the camera in order to use the lens. Stop-down metering must then be used if you wish to use the camera's meter.

There is an exposure compensation dial under the film rewind lever. There is also a multiple exposure tab under the film advance lever. By holding it to the rear and then advancing the film lever, you can prevent the film from advancing inside the camera, and the film counter will remain at the same number (unlike earlier models that still advance the frame number and leave you guessing as you near the end of the roll).

If all of this isn't enough to keep you thinking, you also have the ability to change the focusing screen in the camera to two other types. The one in the camera is called a 'type K'. There was also a type B made and a type E. The type E provides a grid for composition. I don't know how difficult it might be to locate these today, but they can be removed and replaced with one of your choosing, should you stumble across one.

Using this camera is easy, once you get the settings tuned in or once you throw it into Aperture Priority mode. The only thing that you have to do is focus and press the shutter button. The camera is well-made and feels good in the hand. It is probably one of the smallest SLRs I have ever used, but it still has a reassuring 'heft' to it, due to the metal parts it is comprised of.

The viewfinder is large and bright and makes focusing easy, and the film advance is so easy to use that it's almost an afterthought. The way it protrudes from the camera body when it is in the 'unlocked' position makes it easy for your thumb to find it, even while you are still looking through the camera and preparing for another shot. Using it, I couldn't help but think that it would not take a lot of practice to be incredibly fast at winding the next frame.

Fortunately, I had an old, FM10 case lying around, and I placed the camera in it, which fits perfectly. But a case is not necessary if you are not concerned about the usual scratches that will accumulate on any camera without a case. The FE can certainly withstand such scratches without slowing down its performance.

The images from its maiden roll came out properly exposed and accurate, using the camera meter. I intentionally underexpose most of my images and then push them in processing for grainier, higher-contrast images. I was able to do that easily on the needle match system, just as I do on my Minolta SRTs. In fact, if I could magically exchange all of my Rokkor lens collection for their Nikon counterparts, I would be very comfortable substituting this camera for my SRTs.

The needle-match exposure needle.

THE SNAP

I think that this is a great camera for anyone wanting to own a dependable and well-built Nikon film camera. Particularly if you do not want to spend a fortune on the later models. As time goes on, I think these cameras will increase in price on the used market as the 'premium' models move further and further out of reach for the rest of us.

In mint condition, these cameras can be had at very reasonable prices, but I got a little crazy at the idea of having an unused one and paid accordingly for it. Although there are other "unused" copies out there that are selling for much more than I paid for mine.

I will try to include some additional photos of the camera in 'A' mode, but I can tell you that Ken was correct. The camera does have the ability to properly expose in bright sunlight, with the lens opened up all the way. Following his advice, I simply set the camera to 'A', ignored the meter that was 'pegged out', and trusted the camera to find that magic, hidden shutter speed. It did. My Helios is an f2 lens, and the camera had no problem keeping up with it in the Florida sunshine.